The Joy Of Wines We Can't Pronounce
Portuguese whites, from grapes you've never heard of, will make you very happy. Including a dozen bottle recommendations.
In Portugal, there’s a white wine grape that’s called either Fernão Pires or Maria Gomes, depending on where you are. If you’re in most of Portugal, particularly in the coastal wine regions surrounding Lisbon, the grape goes by the masculine name, Fernão Pires. If you’re in Bairrada or Tejo, it goes by the feminine name, Maria Gomes. Why are there two completely different first and last names for this grape? I have no idea, and I doubt most people in Portugal know, either.
I believe this is a great place to start with Portuguese white wines. Because here’s what I do know: most American wine drinkers have no clue about Fernão Pires or Maria Gomes. Nor do they likely know these indigenous grapes: bical, antão vaz, or jampal. Some readers may have familiarity with arinto or encruzado. And most probably know alvarinho (aka albariño). (By the way, branco means white in Portuguese).
But my point is this: Portuguese whites are terra incognita for most wine lovers. Which I find a bit surprising, considering how popular that Portugal has become as a travel destination. I’ve written at length, in fact, about the effects of overtourism on Lisbon.
I’ve also written about some positive effects of tourism over the past twenty years, including the new wave of wine bars, wine shops, and wine-forward restaurants in Lisbon.
The bottom line is that lots of people visit Portugal, and no doubt discover the country’s delicious (and amazing value) wines. You certainly find more and more on good wine menus in the U.S.
A few months ago, I wrote about the rise of cooler, fresher, “Atlantic style” red wines from Portugal, particularly from Bairrada and the appellations around Lisbon, made from grapes like baga and castelão. Winemakers like Filipa Pato and her father Luis Pato have become fairly well-known names.
But today I want to talk about the whites. Back in the early spring, I went to a great Portuguese wine event at Colonia Verde in Brooklyn, with a half dozen winemakers from all over Portugal pouring their wines. The reds were fantastic, but I was even more taken by the whites.
Ever since, I have been seeking out the whites. Availability—as always—is a huge issue. Too many stores stock a few cheap vinho verde and call it day on Portuguese white wines.
Not that there’s anything wrong with vinho verde, by the way. I’m a big fan of young, slightly fizzy “green” wine from northern Portugal, which is perfect on a hot summer day. I wrote my praises of vinho verde a few years back.
But I’d like to make the case for leveling up on Portuguese whites. There are so many great bottles in the $25-$30 range, wines that would be double the price in other regions.
Below, I’ve focused on a handful of selections from three regions: the Alentejo in the south, Lisbon and its coastal appellations, and Bairrada, in north central Portugal.
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