Last week, I wrote about the old-time, traditional Lisbon—the Lisbon of ginginha bars, azulejo tiles, creaky trams, and classic tascas like Zé da Mouraria, where you eat a huge platter of bacalhau washed down with vinho verde at long tables lined with white paper, under posters of fado queen Amália Rodrigues. But to only talk about that Lisbon is to neg…