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I was stuck in Logroño in 2016 while hiking the Camino de Santiago. I had acquired major tendonitis and a terrible cold at once, but a week in the Hotel Marques de Vallejo and nightly sojourns on Calle Laurel really helped (even if I was totally unable to go big). Mostly I rested and watched Spanish TV - reruns of the Marisol movies, lots of fortune tellers/astrologers, and some NBA telecasts which were hilarious dubbed in Spanish. But, the garlicky mushrooms of Bar Angel, the elevated pintxos at Torres Gastrobar, as well as the amazing sushi/pintxos at Ummm Logroño were amazing. Received a full Riojo education at La Taverna where I was asked "desde alli o de alli" = "from there or from there" - meaning, do you want one from 3 km away or 10 km away. And when I was finally able to get back on the Camino, I was in love with the rocky red earth everywhere...

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I'm still a big fan of the traditional bodegas in Rioja but it's true what you say - the new wave movement in the region, and across the country, is really exciting and there are so many talented producers in Spain. Thanks for spreading the word!

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