Long Live 'La Hora del Vermut'
Day drinking vermouth in Barcelona is one of the world's great pleasures. Plus: Spanish vermouths to seek out.
Last month, I published a feature about my favorite Barcelona wine bars in Wine Enthusiast. At the time, I mentioned that I had more pieces coming focused on Spanish and Catalan vermouth, as well as the city’s famed vermouth bars. Well, I’m happy to share both pieces today: a guide to Barcelona’s vermuterias, published in the current issue of Travel + Leisure, and another on the sublime pleasures of Spanish vermouth in Wine Enthusiast (please check out both pieces).
From Travel + Leisure:
It was early evening in Barcelona—that wonderful time in Spain when work is over, but the sun is still out, and it will still be hours before dinner. We lounged outside a buzzing, trendy bar called Morro Fi, drinking vermouth, over ice, and nibbling olives, potato chips, and convervas, those tinned fish that are such a delicacy in Iberia.
Morro Fi is sleek and modern, with a minimalist interior and equally minimalist menu. “We only serve vermouth, beer, and snacks,” said owner Marcel Fernandez. “As a kid, I went with my parents after church for a vermouth, before going to lunch with the family. So, I haven’t been very creative. It’s the same menu that a vermuteria served when I was a kid.”
The hora del vermouth—“vermouth hour”—is a sacred time of day in Barcelona. Originally, it meant sometime around noon or 1 pm, when you took a vermouth and a snack to tide you over until lunch. But these days, the vermouth hour can be any time before a meal, though it usually means day drinking. “We don’t like to be open late at night,” Fernandez said.
Check out the whole piece here
From Wine Enthusiast:
Spanish vermut generally has a different taste than its Italian counterpart. It’s more citrusy, brighter and less bitter, meant to be drunk not in cocktails but on the rocks with food. To be perfectly honest, Spanish vermouth is not meant to be a complex drink you spend a lot time pondering over.
…about a decade ago, a younger generation of trendsetters in Barcelona set off a vermouth renaissance. Part of it was a new wave of local vermouth brands, such as Casa Mariol and Morro Fi. Part was also a sense of pride in local products as Catalan nationalism grew.
These days, while much of the vermouth production happens in Catalonia, the drink has become wildly popular all over Spain. In Jerez, where Sherry is becoming a harder and harder sell, several well-known Sherry houses have started making quality vermouth.
Where to Drink Vermouth in Barcelona
My favorite vermouth bars have less to do with the quality of the vermouth, and more with the general vibe. When I asked my Barcelona friend Lucy which was her favorite vermouth bar in Barcelona, she said: “I love the one in front of my apartment.”
Morro Fi
One of the places that kicked off the vermouth renaissance in Barcelona. It has several outposts; the most centrally located is in the L’Eixample neighborhood.
Senyor Vermut
Just up the street from the original Morro Fi, this makes a perfect second stop for patatas bravas or croquetas.
Cala del Vermut
Near Barcelona’s old Gothic cathedral, this narrow spot serves house vermouth from a barrel on the bar, and serves fantastic tortilla and other snacks.
Quimet & Quimet
This popular Poble Sec spot has some of the most renowned tapas and bocadillos in town, along with house-made vermouth and a large wine list. Get there at 6 pm when it opens, because it gets super crowded.
Bar Electricitat
In the old port neighborhood of Barceloneta, dating to 1908, lined with barrels, you drink vermouth from an unmarked bottle, which the waiter measures to calculate the bill.
Spanish Vermouths to Seek Out
Barcelona was the spot where Spain’s vermouth renaissance started, and so Catalonia remains a source of great vermouth. But there are growing number of vermouth brands now coming from Jerez, as sherry houses look to diversify their offerings.
Note: If you’re in New York, a great place to taste a number of Spanish vermouths is Bar Celona at José Andrés’ Mercato Little Spain.
Casa Mariol Vermut Negre
Intense and citrusy, with big flavor and great heft and texture. I love the herbal nose and the underlying notes of cola and birch beer.
Yzaguirre Rojo
This is a classic Catalonia vermouth of the style you’d likely find at a corner vermuteria in Barcelona.
Timbal Vermut de Reus
Easy drinking, wormwood-forward vermouth full of baking spice and an underlying sweetness.
Priorat Natur
A fascinating “orange” vermouth, earthy and bittersweet, with notes of white blossoms, rosemary, and a hint of vanilla.
Navazos-Palazzi Vermut Rojo
This vermouth from famed negociant Equipo Navazos and importer PM Spirits comes from Jerez. Bright, citrusy, and super floral, with notes of lavender and chamomile on the nose and tea-like notes on the palate. Great on ice or in cocktails.
Valdespino
From the famed sherry producer, this is vibrant and bright, with a nose is a swirl of blossoms, orange peel, and oregano, and is light and lithe in mouth with citrus and cocoa flavors.
Atamán
Another vermouth from a sherry house, in this case Barbadillo. Nutty and full of clove, nutmeg, and brown sugar.
Delightful, informative read.