EVERYDAY DRINKING

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Does Spain Have the World's Greatest Drinking Culture?
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Spirits & Cocktails

Does Spain Have the World's Greatest Drinking Culture?

Is it even a question? My Spanish dispatches, including three new cocktail recipes inspired by Jerez.

Jason Wilson
Aug 23, 2022
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Does Spain Have the World's Greatest Drinking Culture?
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Afternoon manzanilla poured at a bar in Sanlúcar de Barrameda

If you’ve been reading this newsletter for a while now, you know there are a few topics that I revisit on a regular basis. German, Loire, Italian, and Austrian wines, for instance. Others might be the world of brandy, pasta pairings, and the joys of lazy cocktails. And, of course, the endless question of why sherry isn’t more popular—and why it should be more so (as I wrote about in Thursday’s newsletter ICYMI).

But sherry is only part of Spain’s rich drinking culture and its vast universe of unique wine and spirits. Since we have a lot of new readers who’ve joined us this summer—the number of subscribers to Everyday Drinking has doubled since Memorial Day—I want to revisit some of the Spanish dispatches that I’ve published over the past year. I’ve made three visits since last July, and so the information is completely up to date.

I’m also including three cocktail recipes below, inspired by sherry and Brandy de Jerez.

First, my report on the new wave of winemaking happening in Rioja and how it’s reshaping Spain’s most prestigious region.

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"We need to destroy this system & start over"
The concept of terroir has never been particularly important in Rioja. Ask most wine people what they know about Rioja, and they will mostly talk of aging classifications: crianza, reserva, gran reserva. So what most people talk about when they talk about Rioja is…
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2 years ago · 3 likes · 1 comment · Jason Wilson

Next, my deep dive into Catalonia’s sparkling wine, which has become a bit confusing now as the best Cava is not even called Cava.

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The Best Cava Is Not Even Called Cava
One of my favorite podcasts is 60 Songs That Explain the ‘90s by music critic Rob Harvilla. I especially love Harvilla’s audio essays on Guns N Rose’s “November Rain,” Oasis’ “Wonderwall,” Boyz II Men’s “End of the Road,” and Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On…
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8 months ago · 8 likes · Jason Wilson

I visited the up-and-coming wine region near Madrid, and tasted some of the most exciting wines in all of Spain.

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My first few days in Madrid were a whirlwind of old favorites and new discoveries. I’m happy to see that the classic tapas crawl has survived the pandemic (though you can’t stand at the bar anymore, and capacity is now limited). For me, it’s been amontillado at La Venencia; prawns and manzanilla at Fide; Yayos (a cocktail with vermouth, a little gin, an…
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2 years ago · 2 likes · 3 comments · Jason Wilson

In Andalusia, I recently explore sherry’s cousin, the dry Pedro Ximénez based wines from Montilla-Moriles. Which I loved.

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It’s only May, and it’s already reached 100°F (38°C) in Córdoba, Spain. That’s nothing, say the locals. Within recent years, scorching summer temperatures have reached more than 116°F (47°C). Suffice to say, Córdoba is one of the hottest places in Europe. Since the surrounding province is also a place that makes wine — from the…
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8 months ago · 8 likes · Jason Wilson

Finally, sherry isn’t the only game in Jerez. Spanish brandy is a category that’s being reinvigorated by savvy producers.

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There are many garish bottles on liquor store shelves, but none do more peacocking than Brandy de Jerez. Surely, you’ve noticed the bottles I’m talking about—even if, like most people, you’ve never bought one. Most Spanish brandies wear crimson or gold upon their labels. One dons a pretty ribbon, while a rival sports an intricate faux-gilded pattern. Som…
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Three Jerez-Influenced Cocktails

Even though, last week, I implored readers to think of sherry more as a wine than a cocktail ingredient, one cannot deny the place of sherry — and its cousin, Brandy de Jerez — behind the bar. Sherry has been a staple since cocktails first appeared in the 19th century. The sherry cobbler (sherry, fruit, and ice) was the espresso martini of its day. Early 20th century classics like the Duke of Marlborough, the Bamboo, the Adonis, and the East Indian — all of which are varying combinations of sherry, vermouth, and bitters — wonderfully showcase the wine.

Flor de Jerez (Photo: Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post/Getty Images)

Flor de Jerez

This mix of sherry, rum, and apricot is a famous Death & Co concoction, created Joaquín Simó. Use good-quality amontillado, such as one from Valdespino or Lustau. For rum, go with something aged in the $25-30 range, such as Appleton Reserve, Flor de Caña Gran Reserva 7-year-old, Plantation Xaymaca Special Dry, or Equiano’s new lightly-aged bottling. For the apricot liqueur, always use Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot.

  • 1½ ounces amontillado sherry

  • ½ ounce aged rum

  • ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice

  • ½ ounce simple syrup

  • ¼ ounce apricot liqueur

  • 1 dash Angostura bitters

Fill shaker halfway with ice. Add all liquid ingredients and shake well. Strain into cocktail glass.


The Dunaway

Over the years, I’ve found that Cynar, the artichoke-based amaro, is an amazing mixing partner with sherry. You can see it here in this cocktail created by Misty Kalkofen (which she named because it’s sassy and sophisticated, just like Faye Dunaway). Kalkofen’s original calls for fino, but I also like the way amontillado works here. Note the odd measurement of sherry.

  • 2 ¼ ounces fino or amontillado sherry

  • ½ ounce Cynar

  • ¼ ounce maraschino liqueur (Luxardo)

  • 2 dashes orange bitters

  • Twist of lemon peel, for garnish

Combine sherry, Cynar, maraschino liqueur, and bitters in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir vigorously, then strain into a cocktail glass. Express lemon peel over the top, then add as garnish.


Little Madrid

This is variation on a variation—specifically the Little Italy, which is itself a variation of a Manhattan. Instead of rye whiskey, it calls for Brandy de Jerez, such as Lepanto, Cardenal Mendoza, or Gran Duque d'Alba.

  • 2 ounces Spanish brandy

  • ¾ ounce sweet vermouth

  • ½ ounce Cynar

Combine brandy, vermouth, and Cynar in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir vigorously, then strain into a cocktail glass.

Little Madrid (Photo: Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post/Getty Images)

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Does Spain Have the World's Greatest Drinking Culture?
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2 Comments
Steve
Aug 23, 2022Liked by Jason Wilson

I will be drinking a Little Madrid tonite and toasting your wonderful newsletter! thank you!

Godforsaken Grapes has been my pool companion this summer, as always great info and wonderful storytelling!

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