Spanish Brandy Needs a Rebranding

The perception of sweet and cheap—not to mention all those cardinals and conquistadors—isn't exactly a recipe for success in 2022. Is there hope for Brandy de Jerez?

There are many garish bottles on liquor store shelves, but none do more peacocking than Brandy de Jerez.

Surely, you’ve noticed the bottles I’m talking about—even if, like most people, you’ve never bought one. Most Spanish brandies wear crimson or gold upon their labels. One dons a pretty ribbon, while a rival sports an intricate faux-gilded pattern. Som…