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EVERYDAY DRINKING

Wine

Why Maturana Matters

What a lesser-known grape, grown by a tiny winery in Rioja, can tell us about size, scale, and the future of wine.

Jason Wilson
Sep 24, 2025
∙ Paid
Elena Corzana and yours truly with the pre-harvest of maturana tinta.

Even in bad years, winemakers have to make wine. As the old adage goes: Anyone can make decent wine in good years. The bad years are the ones that show who’s great and who’s merely average. Bad years are when dogma, status quo, the common wisdom, and dated marketing strategies must be …

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