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John Frishkopf's avatar

This piece nails the bifurcation problem. At Klocke Estate Distillery in the Hudson Valley, we make three vermouths from our own Vidal Blanc wine, and what we've learned through our cocktail program backs up Caroline's point: the demand for sipping vermouth is real, but it has to be experienced to be discovered. We regularly see guests who'd otherwise default to an Aperol spritz choose our vermouth on the rocks or in a spritz instead, once it's actually in front of them. And a vermouth spritz with soda or tonic is genuinely one of the lowest-ABV refreshers you can hand someone, which makes the conversion pretty easy once they try it. It's less about convincing people vermouth deserves a "moment" and more about giving them a low-stakes way to taste it themselves.

Caroline Lamb's avatar

“Low-stakes” is definitely key … I simply can’t pay $18 for an Americano with basic vermouth & Campari, which is something I have seen recently lol

Christopher Frame's avatar

I think Americans, “are…putting themselves in scenarios where they might discover this way of enjoying vermouth,” if a bar poured it. The same bar could be offering the Adonis or a marianito and maybe that would create more interest. For a drink that is poured in every old man bar across from every train station, I find it frustrating the number of bars here in the states that will have a one non-speedrack vermouth but it’s partida creus or one of the other pricier ones (which can be great, I’m not against them) rather than a less expensive option that people might be more willing to blow some time with. Jason, I want that wine dive bar in my neighborhood.

Caroline Lamb's avatar

I think this ties into Sara’s piece on EDD this week, “People In Dallas Don’t Drink What We Drink”. She examines how much the people who choose what gets printed on a menu shape taste at large.

Simply offering more and better options certainly might help drive demand, but the culture still lags behind the supply and noise about vermouth in the US.

Nils Schmid's avatar

I came across a “rosé vermut” from Lustau recently. I think this is a recent “innovation” and I know that “rosé vermut” is somewhat looked down upon, but at the same time Lustau in my mind qualifies as an “old school” producer of the Spanish style. It was quite sweet, no surprise there, and heavy on the vanilla. But it was actually quite good over ice and I did think of it as “vermut”. Hence, I think there are developments in this area in the “old world” as well.

Caroline Lamb's avatar

Nice. Will have to look out for some this season.

Jason Wilson's avatar

Yes, even Martini put out a rose vermouth about 12-15 years ago. Idk if it’s still on the market