EVERYDAY DRINKING

EVERYDAY DRINKING

Culture & Food

Cheese + Grappa, or The End of Pairing

On taste and the ineffable.

Jason Wilson
Apr 29, 2025
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“Taste has no system and no proofs,” writes critic Susan Sontag in her famed essay “Notes on Camp.”

We’ve been discussing heady ideas of taste and beauty in wine over the past couple of weeks, particularly in my essays “Still Life With Wine” and “Pardon Me, Would You Have Any Viognier.”

Last week, I cited critic Ted Gioia’s assertion that there is current…

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