Brandy (You're a Fine Spirit)

Your reminder that, around here, we love Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados and all the other brandies.

May 5

Ever since the news of Everyday Drinking being awarded Substack’s Food Writers fellowship, we’ve had a bunch of new readers join the ranks. So I thought it might be a good idea to take a step back, and to talk about a topic that is near and dear to this newsletter: Brandy. Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados, eaux de vie, schnapps, Brandy de Jerez, you name it. Sure, we love rum and whiskey and many other spirits, but brandy is the one we’re always trying to make happen around here. Some even say Armagnac is The New Bourbon! (I, however, do not agree.)

To that end, I’ve also added a bunch of brandy content that will also be new to many readers who’ve been long-time subscribers. Finally, I’ve added three primers on the major brandies: Cognac, Armagnac, and Calvados for paid subscribers.

So, please enjoy a deep dive into this collection of writing about my favorite spirit, perhaps while listening to the dulcet sounds the Yacht Rock classic “Brandy (You’re a Fine Girl)” (Editor’s note: my brother Tyler, a Yacht Rock aficionado claims that this song is not “technically” Yacht Rock because it predates the genre.)

5 Brandy Reads

1. My Armagnac road trip (and my ode to The Sopranos’ Artie Bucco) inspired by the world's oldest brandy.

Everyday Drinking

An Armagnac Pilgrimage

Google Maps wasn’t wrong. But it wasn’t totally correct, either. We’d left the paved back roads of Ténarèze, in Armagnac, somewhere south of a town called Condom (yes, you read that right: Condom). Traveling along a gravel road through the vineyards, we could see our destination, the 17th century…

5 months ago · 1 like · Jason Wilson

2. Talk of Cognac is always so focused on big brands: Hennessy, Courvoisier, Rémy Martin, Martell. But the most interesting stories, and finest brandies, come from smaller producers. My essay on how precarious it is for these special, family-run estates.

Everyday Drinking

Cognac Is All in the Family

When Michel Laurichesse died last year, it left the future of Cognac Paul Beau, one of the legendary producers in Grand Champagne, very unclear. For years, Michel had run the 100-hectare estate in Segonzac with his brother and then his nephew, but by the time of his passing, the family was in conflict about how (and by whom) the company would be run. In…

5 months ago · 1 like · Jason Wilson

3. XO, VSOP, VS, Napoléon, Réserve, Vieille Réserve, Extra, Extra Old, Extra Extra Old. Brandy nomenclature is madness! But I take a crack at explaining and simplifying.

Everyday Drinking

XO Marks the Spot

In a world of bespoke barrel picks, this is maybe an unpopular take, but I don’t believe you’re a serious brandy person without an appreciation for at least a few XO bottlings. With Cognac and Armagnac, the concept of blending is the most difficult for Americans to wrap their minds around. In the world of craft spirits — especial…

5 months ago · Jason Wilson

4. What about Spanish brandy? Its perception of sweet and cheap—not to mention all those cardinals and conquistadors on the labels—isn't exactly a recipe for success in 2022. Is there hope for Brandy de Jerez?

Everyday Drinking

Spanish Brandy Needs a Rebranding

There are many garish bottles on liquor store shelves, but none do more peacocking than Brandy de Jerez. Surely, you’ve noticed the bottles I’m talking about—even if, like most people, you’ve never bought one. Most Spanish brandies wear crimson or gold upon their labels. One dons a pretty ribbon, while a rival sports an intricate faux-gilded pattern. Som…

3 months ago · Jason Wilson

5. Finally, I wrote a profile of Grosperrin, one my favorite Cognac brands, and the work Guilhem Grosperrin, who hunts the special honey barrels that brandy enthusiasts dream about.

Everyday Drinking

The Art of Chasing the Unicorn Barrel

The brandy world (small as it is) has been buzzing about Cognac Grosperrin after the surprising news that French spirits house Maison Villevert acquired a stake in the merchant known for its rare, small-batch Cognacs. Maison Villevert director Jean-Sébastien Robicquet says he will take a hands-off approach and …

5 months ago · Jason Wilson

Everyday Drinking

Brandy (You're a Fine Spirit)

Your reminder that, around here, we love Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados and all the other brandies.

5 Brandy Reads

1. My Armagnac road trip (and my ode to The Sopranos’ Artie Bucco) inspired by the world's oldest brandy.

2. Talk of Cognac is always so focused on big brands: Hennessy, Courvoisier, Rémy Martin, Martell. But the most interesting stories, and finest brandies, come from smaller producers. My essay on how precarious it is for these special, family-run estates.

3. XO, VSOP, VS, Napoléon, Réserve, Vieille Réserve, Extra, Extra Old, Extra Extra Old. Brandy nomenclature is madness! But I take a crack at explaining and simplifying.

4. What about Spanish brandy? Its perception of sweet and cheap—not to mention all those cardinals and conquistadors on the labels—isn't exactly a recipe for success in 2022. Is there hope for Brandy de Jerez?

5. Finally, I wrote a profile of Grosperrin, one my favorite Cognac brands, and the work Guilhem Grosperrin, who hunts the special honey barrels that brandy enthusiasts dream about.

Ready for more?