4 Comments

Alexandra: Sounds like Burgenland was more Hungarian than Austrian! My parents emigrated from Budapest after WWII and chicken paprikash and Gulyash soup were staples. Is there a chance that Blaufrankisch was a component in Egri Bikaver? (sometimes called "Bull's Blood") And I'm guessing that the prices you quoted were for NYC retail.... hard to find these wines out here in California!

Expand full comment

Loved this one, Alexandra!

Expand full comment

Jason, great article - any feelings on producers outside of Burgenland? Finger Lakes & Shenandoah Valley versions both seem to have great promise. Thanks - Will

Expand full comment

An interesting read and a good introduction to Austria, Hungary and the Burgenland. Yes, Hungary lost the Burgenland along with two-thirds of its territory with the Treaty of Trianon on June 4th, 1920.

As a number of "Austrian" things go, a few of them are Hungarian culinary wise, and/or culturally. Both chicken paprikash, and beef goulash are authentic Hungarian dishes, which they also have in Austria; but they aren't Austrian.

Onto the Blaufrankish topic, it's a Hungarian cultivar with its origin in present day Slovenia, but originally part of old Hungary. Hungary grows more of it than anywhere else, at 7,755ha (Caroline Gilby MW in Decanter's Sponsored Guide 2021). To answer George Ronay's question, it is an integral part of Bikaver, (Bull's Blood) both in Eger and in Szekszard. Though increasingly in Hungary you find it being made as a high quality medium bodied single varietal. It does reflect terroir and wine making styles quite well and is great as rose as well.

Expand full comment