A Wine That Even Critics Don't Understand

But you, savvy reader, should be seeking out Savennières.

Several years ago, during my brief stint writing for a points-scoring wine publication, I attended a dinner in New York hosted by the magazine’s staff and attended by their team of wine critics. All of us were supposed to bring a wine from the regions we covered. I’m not naive, and I realized the decision of which bottle to bring to this dinner of estab…