The Drinker's Guide to Madrid

Our man in Spain's capital offers his top spots for sipping and eating.

This travel guide comes from Madrid-based writer François Monti, author of several books, including his most recent, Mueble Bar, as well as the cocktail newsletter, Jaibol.

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Fifteen years ago, when I decided to move to Madrid, a friend asked me why I didn’t choose Barcelona. In his view, my pick was a provincial town. Culturally and gastronomically, the Catalan capital was the cosmopolitan option, he said. And it had a beach! Madrid was in a weird position: It was the biggest city in one of the most-visited countries in Europe but most travelers treated it as just a layover on the way to their final destination. For those on the food-and-drink beat, this meant spending a few days in the Basque Country or Seville and actively trying not to spend a night in Madrid.

I’m happy to report my friend was wrong and I was right. In the late aughts, Madrid was already a fascinating city, vibrant day and night, 7 days a week and worthy of a longer stay. It seems people are now catching up: The city has become a hot touristic destination, with big luxury hotels and hospitality groups moving in, raising fear that the city’s fabric will be lost. Right now, though, I would say Madrid is better for visitors than it has ever been. Spain’s capital still offers plenty of the charms of its ‘provincial’ days but overall quality and diversity has raised considerably with the influx of new talents and, why lie, money.

To the Everyday Drinker, Madrid offers one of the best opportunities in the world for… All Day Drinking. There’s a strong tradition of vermouth and sherry bars catering for the lunch trade and many cocktail bars open relatively early (from 4pm) to catch the post-lunch crowd. And while only five years ago the city had very little dedicated wine places, we’re going through a wine bar boom, where young sommeliers showcase some of the best of the upcoming generation of Spanish winemakers. Even coffee, long a shameful black mark on Madrid’s reputation, is going through a golden age!

Viva Madrid.