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"We need to destroy this system & start over"
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"We need to destroy this system & start over"

A new generation in Rioja is reshaping Spain's most famous wine

Jason Wilson
Jul 28, 2021
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Photo: Tentenublo

The concept of terroir has never been particularly important in Rioja. Ask most wine people what they know about Rioja, and they will mostly talk of aging classifications: crianza, reserva, gran reserva. So what most people talk about when they talk about Rioja is…wood. Which makes Rioja feel sort of anachronistic in a contemporary wine…

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